By James Brooke – The New York Times – See the article in its original context from – April 26, 1994, Section A, Page 4
After straining in vain against his net one hot afternoon, a fisherman here finally dove overboard out of frustration. When he emerged from the murky waters of the Potengi River, he reported a catch too big for his rowboat: a twin-engine B-25 bomber.
Patrick Muller, a French scuba diver, confirmed it after a day of underwater exploration. “It’s an American B-25 all right, almost completely intact,” he said. “The plane was down there for 50 years, and then this guy snags it in his net.”
Half a century ago, this coastal city on Brazil’s northeastern bulge was frenetically following the World War II call by President Roosevelt to become a “Trampoline for Victory.” Today the base is a shadow of its former grandeur, but Brazil is trying to take advantage of the 50th anniversary of D-Day to renew interest in its history.
The busiest American air base in the world in the first half of 1944, the twin strips of Parnamirim field at Natal handled a landing every three minutes as troops and cargo were ferried across the South Atlantic to feed campaigns in Italy, Africa, Russia, Burma and China and the looming invasion of Normandy.
The closest point in the Americas to Africa, this equatorial city provided a year-round jumping-off point for the limited-range planes of the era. A alternate northern route, through Newfoundland and Greenland, was blocked for weeks at a time by winter weather.
“It was tremendous operation,” Abe Cohen, 75, an American veteran now living in Rio de Janeiro, recalled of his days as an air-traffic controller. “We had hundreds of planes and thousands of men going through there every day in peak periods.”
Half a century ago, this bustling American military city had enough barracks and tents for 6,600 soldiers, a weekly newspaper, and a big Post Exchange supplied by Latin America’s first Coca-Cola bottling plant.
Today the base is a pilot training center for the Brazilian Air Force. On a recent afternoon, a visitor to the old U.S.O. open-air theater startled swallows nesting among stage lights that once illuminated shows by Clark Gable and Humphrey Bogart. Fallen mangoes littered the grass around a New England-style chapel, built in 1943 with an aircraft warning beacon atop its steeple. The only jeep to be seen on the base was a dune buggy carrying Brazilian airmen for a weekend at the beach.
In the early 1940’s, in an ultimately successful effort to win Brazil over to the Allied side, the United States built airfields and Brazil’s first steel plant. A generation of military friendships forged here allowed for a close alliance between Brazil and the United States.
Today Brazil is trying to resurrect the World War II alliance in the name of the region’s modern international nexus: tourism.
Last year, for the first time since the World War II air ferry shut down, Natal inaugurated its first scheduled international flight — to Rome. Officials in this city of 650,000 people hope to attract Americans by dusting off the almost forgotten wartime link.
Later this year a Historical Museum of World War II Aviation is to open, drawing on equipment left behind by the Americans, including a B-23 and a B-25. A jeep used by President Roosevelt and President Getulio Vargas of Brazil when they met in Natal in 1943 will also be displayed.
Photographs will capture some of the 1940’s figures who passed through here: Eleanor Roosevelt, Madame Chiang Kai-shek, Antoine de Saint-Exupery, Harry Hopkins, Charles Lindbergh, Jack Benny, Ernie Pyle and Tyrone Power.
The cast of Axis spies who turned Natal into a Brazilian Casablanca will be less visible — the German nun who routinely talked her way past guards at the docks and shadowy Brazilian fascists who always seemed to cruise their motorbikes past the port when troop transports dropped anchor.
“The local police were sharply criticized for the negligent way they treated suspected Axis agents,” Clyde Smith Jr., an American professor who lives here, wrote last year in his Portuguese-language history of the base.
For Brazilians old enough to remember the American presence, unpleasant memories of air-raid drills and bomb shelters have largely given way to happier images of G.I.’s knocking down Cuba libres at the Wonder Bar.
“I learned to dance the swing,” Maria Lucia da Costa, now a great-grandmother, recalled as she served homemade cake to an American visitor. “The boogie-woogie was great. The American parties had everything.”
Her husband, Fernando Hippolyto da Costa, a retired Brazilian Air Force colonel, chimed in with a list of American contributions to local culture: “Rayban sunglasses, American cigarettes, canned beer, greased hair, and wearing shorts.”
Protasio Pinheiro de Melo, who taught Portuguese at the base, recently wrote a book on “North American contributions to Rio Grande do Norte life.” Relaxing on his palm-shaded veranda, he ran down his list: “Kissing girls in public, drinking out of bottles, dancing the jitterbug, calling everyone ‘my friend,’ and wearing sport clothes.”
“When the Americans came here, they found a small town with a lot of prejudices,” Mr. de Melo said of Natal, which 50 years ago had a population of 40,000. “Girls couldn’t go to parties without chaperones. We had to wear coats and ties at the cinemas.”
Pointing to a picture of himself solemnly wearing a coat, tie and hat to a G.I. volleyball game in 1943, Mr. de Melo added with a laugh, “I must have 80 ties in the closet that I never wore again.”
A version of this article appears in print on April 26, 1994, Section A, Page 4 of the National edition with the headline: Natal Journal; Brazil’s Glory Days of B-25’s and Boogie-Woogie.
TOK de HISTÓRIA 